Installation Guide

Our installation guides walk you through every step of setting up your shading solution. Whether you're installing blinds, motorized blinds, curtains, or combining them all, we've got detailed instructions to make the process straightforward and free from any hassles.

How to Measure Your Windows

Before ordering your blinds, make sure your measurements are accurate. Use a steel measuring tape where possible and record all measurements in millimetres (mm).

Step 1: Choose Your Mounting Type

First decide whether you want your blind installed as an Inside Mount or an Outside Mount.

Inside Mount
The blind is installed inside the window recess for a clean, fitted appearance.

Outside Mount
The blind is installed over the window opening. This provides greater coverage and can help reduce light entering around the sides of the blind.

Once you have chosen your mounting type, you can begin measuring.

Step 2: Measure the Width

Outside Mount

  1. Measure horizontally across the window from left to right.
  2. Measure the width at the:TopMiddleBottom
  3. Record the widest measurement.
  4. Add approximately 120 mm to the total width for additional coverage.
  5. This gives you your final blind width.

Example

If your window measures:

1000 mm wide

Add:

120 mm overlap

Your final blind width would be:

1120 mm

The additional overlap helps provide better window coverage and allows sufficient space for mounting.

Inside Mount

  1. Measure horizontally inside the window recess.
  2. Measure at the:TopMiddleBottom
  3. Record the narrowest measurement.
  4. Use this measurement when ordering your blind.

Using the narrowest measurement helps ensure the blind fits correctly inside the window recess.

Step 3: Measure the Height

Outside Mount

  1. Measure vertically from the top of the window to the bottom.
  2. Take three measurements at the:LeftCentreRight
  3. Record the tallest measurement.
  4. Add approximately 120 mm to the total height.
  5. This additional space allows for the mounting brackets and provides better window coverage.

Inside Mount

  1. Measure vertically inside the window recess from top to bottom.
  2. Measure at the:LeftCentreRight
  3. Record the tallest measurement.
  4. Use this measurement as your blind height.

Step 4: Double-Check Your Measurements

Before placing your order:

  1. Check your width measurement again.
  2. Check your height measurement again.
  3. Confirm whether you selected Inside Mount or Outside Mount.
  4. Make sure all measurements are recorded in millimetres.
  5. Check that you have entered the correct measurements when building your blind online.
  6. Select your fabric, colour and other available options.
  7. Review your order before proceeding to checkout.

Once everything is correct, you can order your custom-made blinds.

Quick Measurement Guide

Mount TypeWidthHeightInside MountMeasure top, middle and bottom. Use the narrowest measurement.Measure left, centre and right. Use the tallest measurement.Outside MountMeasure top, middle and bottom. Use the widest measurement and add 120 mm.Measure left, centre and right. Use the tallest measurement and add 120 mm.

Tip: Measure each window individually, even if the windows appear to be the same size. Small differences can affect the final fit of your blinds.

Before ordering your blinds, make sure your measurements are accurate. Use a steel measuring tape where possible and record all measurements in millimetres (mm).

WHAT YOU NEED

  • A metal measuring tape
  • A pen and paper

STEP 1: MEASURE THE WIDTH

  1. Measure the full length of your track or rod.
  2. No track yet? Measure across the window and add extra on both sides, usually 150-300 mm total so the curtains can stack neatly when open.

STEP 2: MEASURE THE DROP

  1. Place the end of your tape on the top of the track.
  2. Measure straight down to the floor.
  3. Do this on the left, middle and right, floors are often slightly uneven. Use the longest measurement.

Decide how you want them to hang:

  • Just off the floor = subtract 10-20 mm
  • Lightly touching the floor = use the exact measurements
  • Slightly pudding = add a little extra

THAT'S IT!

You now have your width and drop. Bring them to us at Shadeworx and we will help you choose the perfect curtains.

Quick tips

  • Always measure twice.
  • Metal tape = accurate results
  • When in doubt, measure a tiny bit longer rather than shorter.

Roller Blind Installation

How to Install Inside Recess Mount Blinds: clear guide by Shadeworx

Installing your standard roller blinds inside the window recess gives a clean, built-in look that sits neatly within the window frame. Follow this guide to achieve a professional result.

What You Will Need

  • Your Shadeworx roller blind
  • Brackets
  • Screws and wall plugs
  • Pencil or marker
  • Measuring tape
  • Screwdriver
  • Drill with suitable bit

Step 1: Position the Brackets

  • Place the brackets inside the top of the window recess.
  • Position them near the outer edges (left and right)
  • Use a spirit level to keep them perfectly level
  • Mark the screw holes with a pencil

Step 2: Fix the Brackets

  • Drill the marked holes
  • Insert wall plugs if needed
  • Screw the brackets firmly in place
  • Control-end bracket goes on the side where you want the chain
  • Idle-end bracket goes on the opposite side

Step 3: Fit the Blind

  • Insert the control end of the blind into its bracket first
  • Push the spring-loaded pin end into the opposite bracket until it clicks securely
  • The blind should sit firmly but still roll freely

Step 4: Test & Finish

  • Raise and lower the blind a few times to check smooth operation
  • Attach the child safety device to keep the chain secure
  • Make any small adjustments if needed

Prefer a visual guide? Watch the installation video here:

How to Install Outside (face) Mount Standard Roller Blinds: Step-byStep Guide

What You Need

  • Your Shadeworx roller blind + brackets
  • Screws and wall plugs
  • Pencil, drill, screwdriver, spirit level, measuring tape

Step 1: Position the Brackets

  • Hold the brackets against the wall or face of the window frame
  • Place them just above the window opening (usually 50-100 mm above the top of the recess)
  • Space them the exact width of the blind (or as marked on your blind)
  • Use a spirit level to keep both brackets perfectly level
  • Mark the screw holes with a pencil

Step 2: Fix the Brackets

  • Drill the marked holes
  • Insert wall plugs if needed
  • Screw the brackets firmly in place
  • Control-end bracket goes on the side where you want the chain
  • Idle-end bracket goes on the opposite side

Step 3: Fit the Blind

  • Insert the control end of the blind into its bracket first
  • Push the spring-loaded pin end into the opposite bracket until it clicks securely
  • The blind should sit firmly but still roll freely

Step 4: Test and Finish

  • Raise and lower the blind a few times to check smooth operation
  • Attach the child safety device to keep the chain secure
  • Make any small adjustments if needed

Inside or Outside the Recess? Choosing the Best Fit for Your Shadeworx Blinds

When ordering made to measure roller blinds from Shadeworx, one of the most important decisions is how the blinds will be fitted: Recess Fit (inside the window opening) or Face Fit (outside/on the face of the window)

This choice affects the final look, how much light is blocked, privacy, and even how well the blinds perform. Here is a guide to help you decide.

What is Recess Fit?

Also called an Inside Mount, a recess fit places the blind inside the window recess (the opening in the wall).

The blind sits neatly within the window frame, creating a clean, built-in appearance.

Pros of Recess Fit:

  • Sleek, minimalist and modern look
  • Hardware and brackets are largely hidden
  • Keeps the window trim/architraves visible
  • Does not protrude into the room
  • Ideal for layering with curtains later

Cons of Recess Fit:

  • Requires sufficient recess depth (usually at least 50-70 mm recommended for roller blinds)
  • Small light gaps on the sides are common
  • Less effective for maximum blackout
  • Precise measurements are essential

Best for: Deep, square recesses, modern interiors, and windows where you want a tidy, integrated finish.

What is Face Fit?

Also called an Outside Mount, a face fit mounts the blind on the wall, architrave or face of the window surround, so it covers the entire opening and overlaps the edges.

Pros of Face Fit:

  • Better light control and privacy (less side light leakage)
  • Excellent for blackout performance
  • Makes windows appear larger
  • Works with shallow or uneven recesses
  • Clears window handles, winders or other obstructions
  • More forgiving with measurements

Cons of Face Fit:

  • Blinds project further into the room
  • Hardware may be more visible
  • Covers the window trim/architraves

Best for: Bedrooms (especially with Blockout fabric), shallow recesses, windows with handles or obstacles, and anyone prioritizing maximum light blockage.

Which Should You Choose?

Choose Recess Fit if:

  • Your window recess is deep enough
  • You want a clean, streamlined look
  • You like seeing the window trim
  • The room has a modern or minimalist style

Choose Face Fit if:

  • You want the best possible light blockage (especially with Blockout fabric
  • The recess is shallow or uneven
  • There are handles, locks or other obstructions
  • You want the window to appear larger
  • Maximum privacy is a priority

Many Shadeworx customers use Recess Fit in living areas and Face Fit in bedrooms for better sleep.

Measuring Tips

  • Recess Fit: Measure the exact inside width at the top, middle and bottom, use the smallest width. Measure height in three places and use the appropriate figure. Do not make your own deductions; we handle the clearances.
  • Face Fit: Measure the full area you want the blind to cover (usually adding overlap on the sides and above the window).

Accurate measuring is critical, especially for recess fit. If you are unsure, our team can guide you.

Common Blind Installation Challenges

Installing made-to-measure roller blinds should be straightfoward, but a few common challenges can lead to light gaps, uneven rolling, or blinds that simply do not perform as expected. The good news? Most issues are preventable with careful measuring, the right mounting choice, and attention to detail.

Here is a practical guide to the most frequent installation challenges we see, along with clear solutions.

Inaccurate Measurements

The problem:

Windows are rarely perfectly square. Measuring in only one place often results in blinds that are too wide, too narrow, or leave noticeable gaps.

How to avoid it:

  • Measure the width at the top, middle and bottom, use the smallest measurement for recess fit.
  • Measure the drop in three places and use the appropriate figure.
  • Always use a metal tape measure (cloth tapes can stretch).
  • Record measurements in millimeters and never round them.
  • Double check every window individually, no two are exactly the same.

Accurate measuring is the single most important step for a successful installation.

Choosing the Wrong Mount Type (Recess vs Face Fit)

The problem:

A recess fit looks clean and built-in, but it needs sufficient depth and can leave side light gaps. A face fit offers better light control but projects further into the room.

How to avoid it:

  • Check the recess depth before ordering (roller blinds usually need at least 50-70 mm).
  • Choose recess fit for a sleek minimal look when depth allows.
  • Choose face fit for maximum blackout, shallow recesses, or when window handles/obstructions are present.
  • Consider face fit in bedrooms if light control is a priority.

Brackets Not Level

The problem:

Even a small difference in bracket height causes the blind to hang crooked or "telescope" (roll up unevenly to one side). This leads to fabric rubbing and premature wear.

How to avoid it:

  • Always use a spirit level when marking and fixing brackets.
  • Do not assume the window frame or ceiling is level; older homes especially can settle over time.
  • Adjust brackets carefully until the spirit level reads perfectly before fully tightening screws.

Light Gaps Around the Edges

The problem:

Small gaps on the sides (or top) allow light to leak through, reducing privacy and blackout performance, especially noticeable with Blackout fabrics.

How to avoid it:

  • For recess fit, accept that a small clearance gap is needed for smooth operation.
  • For better light control, opt for face fit so the fabric overlaps the window opening.
  • Consider side channels or light blocking strips for maximum darkness in bedrooms or media rooms.
  • Ensure the blind is ordered at the correct width for the chosen mount type.

Obstructions and Clearance Issues

The problem:

Window handles, winders, tiles, deep sills or furniture can prevent the blind from operating smoothly or fully retracting.

How to avoid it:

  • Note all protrusions when measuring.
  • Choosing face fit or spacer brackets if handles interfere with recess installations.
  • Ensure enough clearance above the window for the rolled-up blind.
  • Test the full travel of the blind (up and down) before finalizing the install.

Incorrect Bracket Spacing or Fixings

The problem:

Brackets that are too far apart, or fixed into weak wall material, can cause the blind to sag, rattle, or pull away from the wall over time.

How to avoid it:

  • Follow the recommended bracket spacing for the blind width and weight.
  • Use the correct wall plug/anchors for plasterboard, brick or concrete.
  • For heavier Blackout or motorized blinds, use stronger fixings or locate studs where possible.
  • Ensure brackets are fully locked or tightened.

Motorized Blind Challenges

The problem:

Motors may not respond, stop mid-travel, or lose programming if installation or setup is incomplete.

How to avoid it:

  • Follow the manufacturers pairing and limit setting instructions carefully.
  • Ensure good battery charge or correct wiring.
  • Keep the motor end clear of metal frames that can interfere with signals.
  • Test operation fully after installation.

Quick Checklist for a Smooth Installation

  • Measure accurately in three places
  • Confirm recess depth and mount type
  • Use a spirit level for brackets
  • Check for handles and other obstructions
  • Use correct wall fixings
  • Test full operation before finishing

How to install No-Drill Roller Blinds: So Easy Anyone Can Do It

Our no drill roller blinds give you a sleek, custom-made look without a single screw, drill, or hole in your frames. They are perfect for renters, DIY beginners, apartments, or anyone who wants beautiful blinds that leave walls and window frames completely untouched.

Here is the complete step by step guide so you can see exactly how easy it is.

Before You Start

  1. Unpack the blind carefully and check everything is included.
  2. Confirm the window recess is suitable (solid sides, no major obstructions like handles that will interfere with fabric, and enough depth for an inside mount).
  3. Clean the inside of the window frame where the ends will sit. Wipe away dust, grease or residue so the tension system grips firmly.

Step by Step Installation

Step 1: Position the blind

Hold the blind at a slight angle. Insert the spring / tightener end (the compressible plunger side) into the window recess first. Push it gently against the side of the frame so the spring compresses.

Step 2: Lift into place

Raise the control end (the side with the chain or mechanism) up into the opposite side of the recess until the whole blind sits level and flush.

Adjust the height so it sits where you want it (usually near the top of the recess for the cleanest look)

Step 3: Secure it

While holding the blind firmly in position, turn the tightening wheel (or use the supplied tool) to expand the mechanism. Keep turning until the blind is locked tightly in place and feels solid-no wobbling.

Step 4: Test and fine-tune

Operate the blind up and down a few times. Check that it rolls smoothly and hangs evenly. If one side sits higher, loosen the wheel a little, adjust the position, and re-tighten.

Watch this short video of a real Shadeworx no drill roller blind being installed. No drills, no screws, no damage:

How to Install Motorized Roller Blinds: Detailed Shadeworx Guide

What you need

  • Your Shadeworx motorized roller blind + brackets
  • Screws and wall plugs
  • Drill
  • Screwdriver
  • Spirit level
  • Measuring tape
  • Remote control

Step 1: Position the Brackets

Inside Recess Mount

  • Place brackets inside the top of the window recess, near the outer edges
  • Keep them level with spirit level
  • Mark the screw holes

Outside (Face) Mount

  • Place brackets on the wall or face of the frame, just above the window opening
  • Space them to match the width of the blind
  • Keep them level and mark the screw holes

Step 2: Fix the Brackets

  • Drill the marked holes
  • Insert wall plugs if needed
  • Screw the brackets firmly in place
  • Motor-end bracket goes on the side where the motor is located
  • Idle/pin-end bracket goes on the opposite side

Step 3: Fit the blind

  • Insert the motor end into its bracket first
  • Push the spring-loaded pin end into the opposite bracket until it clicks securely
  • The blind should sit firmly and level

Step 4: Power and Pair the Motor

  • Insert batteries or charge the motor (unless motor is already battery-powered)
  • Follow the instructions that came with your motor to pair it
  • Test the up, down, and stop functions with the remote or app
  • Set upper and lower limits

Step 5: Final Checks

  • Raise and lower the blind fully a few times
  • Check that it runs smoothly and stops level
  • Make any small adjustments if needed

Curtain Installation

Installing Curtain Tracks: Detailed Guide by Shadeworx

A well fitted curtain track makes all the difference to how your Shadeworx curtains hang, open and close. Whether you are fitting tracks for sheer curtains, blackout panels or a combination of both, following a few simple steps will give you a professional, smooth-running result.

Here is a clear guide to help you install curtain tracks correctly.

Tools and Materials you Need

  • Measuring tape
  • Spirit level
  • Drill and appropriate drill bits
  • Screwdriver
  • Wall plugs suitable for your wall type
  • Curtain track kit

Tip: Always check the specific instructions that come with your track system, as designs can vary slightly.

Step 1: Measure and Plan the Position

Decide whether you want a wall mount (face fix) or ceiling mount.

  • Wall mount is the most common.
  • Ceiling mount creates a clean, floor-to-ceiling look and works well with modern interiors.

Measure the width of your window and add extra length on each side (typically 150-300 mm total overhang) so the curtains can stack back clear of the glass when open.

Decide the height:

  • Usually, 100-150 mm above the window frame for a standard look.
  • Higher placement can make the window appear taller.

Mark a straight horizontal line using a spirit level where the track will sit.

Step 2: Drill and Fix the Brackets

  • Drill pilot holes at your marked positions.
  • Insert the correct wall plugs or anchors for your wall type.
  • Screw the brackets firmly into place.
  • Test that each bracket is secure and level before continuing.

Important: For plasterboard, use suitable cavity fixings or locate the studs. Masonry, use the correct plugs and screws.

Step 4: Prepare and Fit the Track

  • If the track is too long, carefully cut it to size with a hacksaw and file any sharp edges.
  • Slide the gliders (carriers) onto the track.
  • Fit the end stops.
  • Lift the track and clip or screw it into the brackets according to the manufacturers system.
  • Tighten any set screws or locking mechanisms so the track is secure.

For longer tracks that come in sections, join them with the supplied splice before mounting.

Step 5: Hang Your Curtains

  • Attach curtain hooks to the heading tape (or thread eyelet rings if using eyelet curtains)
  • Hook the curtains onto the gliders
  • Space the hooks evenly for a neat, balanced appearance
  • Test that the curtains open and close smoothly along the full length of the track

Extra Tips for a Professional Finish

  • Allow enough clearance from the wall so the curtains do not rub when drawn
  • For heavy blockout curtains, use more brackets or a stronger track system
  • If you are installing a double track (sheer + blockout), ensure the brackets can support both
  • Always work with a helper when fitting long or heavy tracks
  • If you are not confident with drilling into walls or ceilings, consider professional installation

A Detailed Guide on Installing Curtain Rods by Shadeworx

Curtain rods are a popular and stylish way to hang Shadeworx curtains, especially eyelet, tab-top or rod-pocket styles. A properly installed rod ensures your curtains hang evenly, open smoothly and look polished.

Follow this straightforward guide for a professional finish.

Tools and Materials you Need

  • Measuring tape
  • Spirit level
  • Drill and appropriate drill bits
  • Screwdriver
  • Wall plugs/ anchors suitable for your wall type
  • Curtain track kit (rod, brackets and finials)

Step 1: Measure and Plan the Position

Measure the width of your window.

Add extra length on each side (typically 150-300 mm total overhang) so the curtains can stack back clear of the glass when open.

Decide the height:

  • Standard placement is 100-150 mm above the window frame
  • Mounting higher (closer to the ceiling) can make the window and room feel taller.

Mark a straight horizontal line using a spirit level where the rod will sit.

Step 2: Mark Bracket Positions

  • Position the end brackets so they sit roughly 50-100 mm in from each end of the rod
  • For wider windows or heavier curtains, add a center support bracket to prevent sagging
  • Mark the screw holes for all brackets
  • Double check that the marks are level and evenly spaced on both sides of the windows

Step 3: Drill and Fixx the Brackets

  • Drill pilot holes at your marked positions
  • Insert the correct wall plus or anchors for your wall type
  • Screw the brackets firmly into place
  • Use a level again to confirm everything is straight before fully tightening

Important:

  • For plasterboard, use suitable cavity fixings or locate the studs
  • For masonry, use the correct plugs and screws
  • Never rely on weak fixings with heavy blackout curtains

Step 4: Assemble and Hang the Rod

  1. If the rod is adjustable or comes in sections, assemble it to the correct length
  2. Slide on any curtain rings
  3. Attach the decorative finials to both ends of the rod
  4. Lift the rod and place it securely into the brackets
  5. Tighten any set screws or locking mechanisms so the rod cannot move

Step 5: Hang Your Curtains

  • Eyelet curtains: Thread the rod directly through the metal eyelets.
  • Rod-pocket or tab-top curtains: Slide the rod through the pocket or tabs.
  • Pleated curtains: Use curtain rings with hooks.

Arrange the folds evenly and check that the curtains open and close smoothly.

Extra Tips for a Professional Finish

  • Always work with a helper when fitting longer or heavier rods.
  • Allow enough projection from the wall so the curtains do not rub against the window or frame.
  • For double rods (sheer + blackout), ensure the brackets are designed to support both.
  • If your walls are uneven, prioritize making the rod level rather than perfectly parallel to the ceiling or window.
  • Test the strength of the brackets by gently pulling down on the rod before hanging heavy curtains.

Common Curtain Installation Challenges (And How to Avoid Them)

Hanging made-to-measure curtains should enhance your space, but a few common installation challenges can leave curtains hanging unevenly, sagging, or looking unfinished. The good news is that most issues are easy to prevent with careful planning and the right approach.

Here is a practical guide to the most frequent curtain installation challenges and how to solve them.

Inaccurate Measurements

The problem:

Curtains that are too short, too long, too narrow or too wide are the most common complaint. Windows are rarely perfectly square, and forgetting stack-back space or floor clearance quickly leads to disappointment.

How to avoid it:

  • Measure the width of the window and add extra for stack-back (typically 150-300 mm total) so curtains can pull clear of the glass.
  • Decide the finished length carefully (kiss the floor, break slightly, or puddle)
  • Measure in millimeters and check multiple points
  • Account for the track or rod height when calculating drop.

Accurate measuring is the foundation of a successful installation.

Hanging the Rod or Track Too Low or Too Narrow

The problem:

Mounting hardware too close to the window frame makes the room feel smaller and prevents curtains from stacking fully open. It also reduces the sense of height and light.

How to avoid it:

  • Mount the rod or track higher, ideally closer to the ceiling or at least 100-150 mm above the window frame.
  • Extend the hardware beyond the window on both sides so curtains can stack clear of the glass.
  • Use a spirit level to keep everything straight.

Higher and wider almost always looks more elegant and functional.

Insufficient Support for Heavy Curtains

The problem:

Heavy blackout, lined or interlined curtains can cause rods or tracks to sag, brackets to loosen, or hardware to pull out of the wall over time.

How to avoid it:

  • Choose a rod or track rated for the weight of your fabric
  • Use center support brackets on longer spans (generally anything over 1.5-2 m)
  • Select the correct wall plugs or anchors for plasterboard, brick or concrete
  • Never rely on weak fixings with heavy curtains

Matching hardware strength to fabric weight prevents future problems.

Uneven or Crooked Installation

The problem:

A rod or track that is not perfectly level makes curtains hang unevenly and look unprofessional. Even small differences become obvious once the fabric is up.

How to avoid it:

  • Always use a spirit level when marking and fixing brackets
  • Do not assume walls, ceilings or window frames are perfectly straight
  • Check level again after the hardware is fixed and before hanging the curtains

Curtains That Do Not Glide Smoothly

The problem:

Sticky tracks, rings that catch, or curtains that bunch can make daily use frustrating. Causes include dust, incorrect glider spacing, or track that is not level.

How to avoid it:

  • Clean the track or rod before hanging curtains
  • Space hooks or rings evenly
  • Ensure the track is level and properly supported
  • For tracks, check that end stops and carriers are correctly installed

Wrong Hardware for the Curtain Style

The problem:

Eyelet curtains need a rod; pencil-pleat or pinch-pleat curtains work best with tracks or rings and hooks. Using the wrong combination leads to poor hanging and operation.

How to avoid it:

  • Match the heading style to the hardware:

Eyelet - Curtain rod

Pencil/pinch pleat - Track or rod with rings and hook

  • Confirm compatibility before ordering

Poor Bracket Fixings or Wall Damage

Brackets that pull away from wall, or walls that crack because of incorrect fixings, are common with plasterboard or poorly prepared surfaces.

How to avoid it:

  • Identify the wall type and use the correct plugs/anchors
  • Locate studs where possible for heavier loads
  • Avoid over-tightening screws
  • For ceiling mounts, ensure the fixings can handle the full weight

Quick Checklist for Success

  • Measure accurately and allow for stack-back
  • Mount high and wide
  • Match hardware and strength to curtain weight
  • Test operation before finalising